Types of Hair Dye – Choosing the Right One for You

You’ve probably thought about dyeing your own hair at home. You might want to touch up your roots, brighten up faded colour, or try something completely new.

Dyeing your own hair at home can be easy to do and the results can be amazing! You won’t have the touch a professional can give you, but with a few basic considerations your at home dye will be dreamy and not a disaster.

There are 2 basic types of hair dye: permanent and semi-permanent.

Permanent hair dye typically contains ammonia. The colour itself is mixed with a developer which is designed to 1) open the cuticle and 2) deposit colour in the hair shaft. Permanent hair colours are great if you are ready to commit to a new colour, if you want it to last long. This type of dye is also the most effective at colouring grey hair.

Permanent hair colour, while staying in the hair permanently, does fade. You will see regrowth and will need to keep dyeing the root unless you want to see the difference between dyed and virgin hair.

This type of hair colour is great if you are committed to a hair colour or if you want to stick to a shade close to your own (this way you won’t see harsh regrowth). For example, you might be an ashy brunette wanting to go more reddish or golden.

Permanent colour can darken the hair and can slightly lighten virgin hair. It does not work for lightening hair that has already been dyed.

Although it may fade somewhat over time, permanent hair colour does have a lasting impact on the hair shaft. This is because it alters the colour structure of the hair. The only way to fully get rid of the colour it is to bleach it, use a colour remover, or… cut it off.

Semi permanent hair color simply adds colour, without opening the hair shaft. This is why these dyes are also called “direct dyes”. This type of dye can be used to try out a new colour temporarily, or to enhance an existing colour. For example, red hair colour fades quickly. If you have dyed red hair, you might want to use a semi permanent colour in between dye jobs to keep the shade vibrant. Direct dyes can be added to conditioner, so each time you wash your hair you can give it a little colour boost! The colour typically lasts between 4 to 12 washes, depending on the individual product.

Semi permanent hair colour will come in a single tube and will need be mixed with a developer.

Permanent hair dyes do effectively damage the hair and leave it vulnerable and porous. This is why it is important to use colour protecting products to help keep the hair healthy and preserve the shade. At-home kits typically come with a conditioner whose job it is to close the cuticle after inserting the colour. Otherwise the colour bleeds out easily. Permanent hair dyes should only be used every 6 weeks or less.

Semi permanent hair colour on the other hand, does not damage the hair, since it does not open up the hair shaft and simply deposits colour on top. You could think of it as long-lasting makeup for hair. This is why some people choose to only use semi permanent hair colours. It does mean more applications, but also gives you the option to get rid of the colour easier and also to switch up colours faster.

There are other types of hair colouring products too, such as demi permanent and hair makeup. Don’t be fooled – demi permanent is just a low ammonia form of permanent hair colour. It will act similarly to permanent hair colour. Demi permanent hair colours are used to add shine or enhance a shade, but they cannot lighten the hair and do not cover grey hair. These are great if you want to enhance an existing shade, correct a tone, or want a gentler alternative for your hair. Demi permanent hair colours do fade eventually, but the results will vary depending on product and your own hair. They will not wash off as easily as semi permanent hair dyes.

How the colour will absorb and how it washes odd will largely depend on your own hair type. Very dry hair will often soak up the hair colour, making it appear darker initially than planned. It will also bleed out colour easier. When in doubt between 2 shades, it is often advisable to choose the lighter colour for this reason. It is always easier to make the hair darker than it is to lighten it.

Some people find that hair that has already been dyed soaks up semi permanent dyes better for this same reason – the follicle is already open, so more colour bleeds out and more can go in.

In the salon, the colourist may use multiple types of hair dye to tailor the shade to your hair’s needs (for example, use a permanent shade on root regrowth and a semi permanent dye to maintain colour in the rest of the hair).

Temporary hair colours (hair makeup) wash off when shampooing and are likely to be “fun” shades – if you want green hair for a party, go for a temporary dye, not semi permanent!

Hopefully this helped you choose the right type of dye for you!

Before you begin, check out Read: How to avoid dye stains.

Have fun colouring!

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